Description
A Pulitzer Prize–winning memoir of a lifelong devotion to surfing, this book follows a young Californian and Hawaiian surfer from childhood waves to far-flung breaks across the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, and beyond. Along the way, it traces the friendships, cultural encounters, youthful risks, and changing social worlds that shape an adventurous life—and the parallel journey of a thoughtful observer who becomes a distinguished writer and war reporter. Richly detailed and wryly reflective, it explores surfing as discipline, addiction, art, and a way of understanding place, identity, and freedom.
Available Editions
paperback
Penguin
Published Jul 21, 2015
448 pages
ISBN: 9780698163744
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Details
First Published
2015
Language
eng
Content Warnings
Content and trigger warnings for Barbarian Days by William Finnegan.